Amaryllis


QUICK REFERENCE PLANTING GUIDE 

1. Light/Sun Exposure - Full to part sun.

 

2. USDA Hardiness Zones - 8 and warmer.

 

3. Planting Distance - 12 inches apart in-ground.

 

4. Mature Height/Spread - 20 inches the first year with a 1 to 2 feet spread.

 

5. Bloom Time - 4-6 weeks after planting, and then intermittently throughout the year.

 

6. Planting Instructions - As indicated below. 

 

Potted Plants - Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the pot in which your plant was grown. Gently remove the root ball from the pot. Partially backfill the hole with soil and place the plant into the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground surrounding the hole. Refill the hole with soil, firming the soil around the plant with your fingers. Check to be sure that the plant is not planted too deeply. If it is, raise the plant carefully and refirm the soil. Water thoroughly. 

Bulbs - Dig a hole in the soil at least twice as wide and twice as deep as the bulb.  Place the bulb with the roots down and the bud pointing up. Work soil in and around bulb, firming it with fingers making sure to leave the top third of your bulb exposed and above the soil line (see illustration).  Do not cover the top of the bulb with soil, as it will rot when watered.  Water thoroughly.

 

 

HOW TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT FROM YOUR AMARYLLIS

 

Amaryllis is only hardy in-ground in zones 8 and warmer. This is the ultimate Christmas flower suitable for any type of indoor location, preferably not in direct sun!

 

Your Amaryllis should be placed in a well-lit room and should not be allowed to dry out.  A southern exposure is best.  When watering your Amaryllis, be sure to thoroughly saturate the soil in a sink to allow excess water to drain from the pot.  Once the plant starts to bloom you need to remember, as with any flower, that the warmer the temperature, the quicker the bloom matures. Any temperature indoors from 65 to 75F is fine.  When in flower, the coolest area in the home is best.  When the flower stalk starts to open into bloom, you can extend the blooming time by moving the plant to a cooler location. When flowering, keep out of direct sunlight. You may wish to move it into a cooler room at night or at other times when you are not at home to extend the blooming time.  

 

Due to the type of vertical growth and heavy blooming of the Amaryllis, staking the flower stalk may be necessary to insure the full enjoyment of the plant.  You should also try to keep the amaryllis away from heat vents and cold drafts to prevent drying. 

 

Once the blooms are spent, cut only the “spent” stalks back to 2-3 inches from the top of the bulb.  This may encourage an additional stalk to emerge.

 

Amaryllis can be grown in a pot as a patio or container plant throughout the rest of the year.  They will not tolerate freezing temperatures so the plant should be kept indoors until the danger of frost has passed.  Once the weather has warmed, move the plant outdoors to a relatively sunny location and provide plenty of water.  Another option is to plant the Amaryllis in the ground (zones 8 and warmer) amongst flowering plants to provide an interesting texture.  The long, dark green leaves are very smooth and will make an excellent background to multi-color beds.

Amaryllis are heavy feeders and like to be fertilized during the growing season.  We recommend feeding with Cottage Farms' water soluble Carefree Bud-N-Flower Booster.  Amaryllis should be fertilized every 2 to 3 weeks throughout the growing season until September 1st.

HOW TO REBLOOM YOUR AMARYLLIS

If grown as a container plant:  Amaryllis are easy to rebloom if you follow a couple of easy steps.  After September 1st, bring the plant indoors and place it in a cool room.  Water the plant only once every two weeks or less, allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings.  You want to force the plant to quit growing.  After 8 weeks, resume watering and care as you normally would for your houseplants, watering 1-2 times per week and not allowing the soil to dry out.  If the foliage has shriveled and turned brown, just remove it. 

 

Around the first of November, place the plant in a warm room and keep the soil evenly moist.  The bloom stalks should appear within 14 days and your plant should be showing color by Christmas.

 

If grown as a bulb plant in a flower bed:  Carefully lift the bulb from the soil with a shovel or large trowel, being careful to stay far away from the bulb so as not to injure it.  Gently loosen the soil attached to the bulb and root structure.  Place the bulb in a cool dark area, if possible, like a garage or basement.  Do not water.  Wait 8 weeks or until the first of November.

 

Repot the bulb into the grower's pot so that the soil line is even with the top of the bulb and the nose is sticking above the soil.  Follow directions above.

 

Repeat the procedure to grow and rebloom for the next year.  If properly cared for, your Amaryllis bulb can grow and produce for multiple years.

CONTINUING CARE

Water - Your plants require at least 1 inch of rainfall (or equivalent watering) each week when in the ground. If you leave in a container outdoors that is exposed to full sun you will have to water well at least once every other day, possibly every day, during periods of intense summer heat. You may wish to temporarily move the container to a location where it is shielded during these times (i.e. in the shade of a tree, on a porch  near an overhang.).  It will still perform well in such situations. Remember to keep the soil moist, not wet.

 

Mulching - Apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of shredded bark, compost or other organic mulch around your plants to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth.

 

Weeding - In ground keep the area around your plants free of weeds. Weeds compete with all plants food, water and light. Walk around the garden periodically and pull weeds, including the roots, as soon as you see them.

 

Grooming - Deadhead or remove flowers when blooms have faded, leaving as much foliage as possible.  You don’t want the flower heads to go to seed.  Seed formation drains off the food needed to produce next year’s growth, which is essential for further bulb development.  Leaves should be allowed to die back naturally before removing.  The green leaves are the last things to wither and dry up but they do provide the nourishment for your bulb growth.  DO NOT remove the foliage while it is still green.

 

Feeding - Discontinue feeding after September 1st so your plants can harden off for winter dormancy. Resume fertilizing when new growth appears in Spring and feed lightly once every 2 to 3 weeks.

 

Winterizing - The time to protect your plants in the garden is after the ground has frozen. At that time, apply a winter mulch of evergreen boughs, straws or leaves to prevent lifting of the plant's roots during alternating periods of freezing and thawing.

 

For container planting, move plants next to your home's southern foundation for added warmth and protection. They may also be moved into an unheated, protected area such as a garage or cellar. If moved to a protected area be sure you water them well once every 7 to 10 days.

 

In Spring, remove mulch from in-ground plantings and remove any dead or damaged parts on any plants.  Also, bring containerized plants back out into the garden sunlight where they will immediately begin to repeat their yearly garden performance.   

CAUTION: Not all plant material is edible. Though most plants are harmless, some contain toxic substances, which can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, or other discomforts. As a general rule, only known food products should be eaten. In case of ingestion, please contact your local poison control center at once and advise them of the plant ingested. Keep out of reach of children.